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  Home » Gardener's Resources » How to Grow Guides » Vegetables » Carrots  
 

How to Grow Carrots

See all Carrots

Latin

Daucus carota subsp. sativus
 

Product Recommendations

Complete organic fertilizer for the best carrots ever.

Floating row cover to prevent insect pest problems.  Lock them out!

Predatory nematodes to attack insect pests in their damaging larval stage.  A pre-emptive measure. 

 

 

Growing Tips

The perfect carrot is easy to grow! Carrots can be grown just about anywhere in just about any kind of soil but prefer a rich, well drained and loose bed. Most of the problems carrots have are associated with cultural conditions; poor drainage, poor soil nutrition, and obstacles in the soil such as too much compaction and even rocks. Also either thin to give the roots room to develop properly or space your seeding so there is less need to thin.

For container gardening with carrots use drainage pipes 6-8" in diameter and a foot in length filled with a potting soil amended with well rotted manure and sand. Thin to three or four strong carrots, each spaced equally apart from the others. Keep well watered during the growing season and be sure to use a complete organic fertilizer. When it's time to harvest simply turn the pipe upside down and dump the carrot out with the soil.

In optimum conditions at least 60% of seeds will germinate. Soil temperature for
germination: 7-30ºC (45-85ºF). Usual seed life: 3 years

 

When To Start

Direct-seed April to mid-July for harvest July-Nov. Sow at 3-week intervals for a
continuous harvest.
 

Preparing the Soil

The softer and more humus-y the soil, the better. When soil is dry enough, work to a fine texture, 15-20cm (6-8") deep. Raised beds work well. Broadcast 2.5L (2/3 gallon) of complete organic fertilizer per 100sq ft before digging soil. Avoid fresh manure. Carrots will become misshapen, though still edible, if they hit anything hard.
 

Harvest

Can be harvested at any size, but flavour is best when the carrot has turned bright orange. After harvest, store at cold temperatures just above 0ºC. You can store in sand or sawdust, or simply leave carrots under heaped soil in the garden during the winter and pull as you need them.
 

Insects

Carrots are easy to grow requiring little care.  For most gardeners the biggest problem is they sowed the tiny seeds too thickly and now they have to vigorously thin to get proper root development.  But carrots do have some insect pests.

The Carrot Rust Fly lays its eggs at the base of the growing carrots.  The larva of the fly chews tunnels and unslightly grooves through the surface of the root causing rot.  Unfortunately the damage isn't just cosmetic; the activities of the Carrot Rust Fly larva changes the flavour of the carrot and makes it quite inedible.  Use our floating row cover to keep the adults away from the carrots.  Plant after the beginning of June to avoid the first and worst infestation period.

The good news for apartment dwellers who want to grow carrots on their balconies is the Carrot Rust Fly is not a good flyer.  It is unlikely to infest their highrise crop. 

Wireworm is another problem pest for carrots.  Wireworms are the larva of click beetles.  They are about an inch and a half long, slender and reddish brown.  When squeezed they turn as rigid as a wire, hence the name.  Wireworms chew irregular holes through roots making the carrots inedible.   Wireworms prefer a moist soil so preparing your carrot bed so that it is well drained will help.  Interplanting with mustard leaf is an excellent way to discourage wireworm damage.  The flavour of the mustard is one deterent and mustard also helps to dry out the soil forcing the wireworm away from the roots.

Predatory nematodes are an effective control for both Carrot Rust Fly and wireworm.  Apply generously in the spring when the larva of both pests are most active. 

 
Carrots
Purple Haze
Minicor
See all Carrots
 
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