Latin |
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Solanum tuberosum
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When To Start |
Potatoes are tolerant of cool soils and moderate frost. Minimum soil temperature at
time of planting should be at least 6ºC (43ºF). Planting dates will vary according to region and microclimate, but potatoes are generally planted in early to mid spring.
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Preparing the Soil |
A well-drained, loamy soil high in organic matter with a pH on the slightly acidic side
(6.0-6.8) would be ideal. If heavy clay or clay loam soils are used, double digging and improving organic matter content by growing cover crops and/or adding composted manure can correct drainage problems. For proper soil fertility in the home garden, dig composted manure into the top 30cm (12") of soil. Use around one wheelbarrow load to 10sq.m of ground. If composted manure is unavailable, home-made compost, a general organic fertilizer (plus leaf mould for water retention), or a proprietary brand of bagged manure can be used. Beds should first be cleared of weeds by scraping with a sharp spade. Loosen the first foot or so of soil with a fork, then top-dress the beds with an inch or so of composted manure or finished compost. When worked into the soil, these amendments will add organic matter and nutrients to your potato beds. Do not add lime to areas of soil planned for potatoes.
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Diseases |
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Early blight and late blight could become problematic, especially on the coast. Symptoms appear as water-soaked gray spots on tips and margins of leaves, leaf axils, and on stems. Organically approved fungicides are being reviewed, call us for up to date information on preventative measures. The most important steps to avoiding disease is to establish a vigorous and healthy crop; this can be accomplished by using disease free seed, planting in rich soil, avoiding pre-emergence irrigation and watering carefully once the crop emerges.
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Insects |
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The most common pests to bother your potatoes on the coast are wireworms (especially in gardens recently taken out of grass). Refer to page 21 for information on dealing with wireworms.
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Growing Tips |
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Preparing Seed Tubers: Our seed potatoes have been intentionally selected for small seed size and should be planted whole. Larger potatoes can be cut so long as there is at least a few "eyes" per 2.5-3cm diameter piece. "Chitting" is the process of pre-sprouting potatoes in a dark and dry place then moving to a cool light place before planting. Chitting potatoes encourages strong sprouts and can lead to an earlier maturing crop. Planting: Set the tubers approximately 7-10cm (3-4") deep and 30cm (1') apart in a prepared trenches spaced 60cm (2') apart. Plants will emerge around 2-3 weeks after planting. When plants are 30cm (1') tall "hill-up" soil 15-20cm (6-8") around the plants (its ok to cover green leaves!); straw or grass mulch also works well. It is recommended that no irrigation take place between planting and sprout emergence to avoid disease. It is important though, not to let the soil become too dry, and to irrigate (keeping water off of plant tissues) when plants are flowering.
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Harvest |
"New" potatoes can be harvested about 7-8 weeks after planting. Potatoes grown for late summer and fall "fresh" use can be dug when tubers are full size or when foliage begins to die. For potatoes grown for storage and winter use, harvest should take place after plants have died back, alternatively, the plants may have to be cut or mown. After killing and removing the plants, tubers should stay in the ground for another 2 weeks to allow firming of their skins for storage. Optimum storage conditions are a dark location 4-7º C (40-45ºF) and 90% relative humidity. Paper sacks stored in a garage will suffice. Check them often though
to remove any that are starting to go.
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